Hiram Green ULTRA courtesy of the Perfumer
“She’ll let you take her home
It whets her appetite
She’ll lay you on a throne
She got Bette Davis eyes
She’ll take a tumble on you
Roll you like you were dice
Until you come out blue
She’s got Bette Davis eyes. “Sung by Kim Carnes, 1981
Hiram Green in Shanghai for the Notes Shanghai show (emailed to Michelyn©)
Artisanal natural perfumer Hiram Green recently found himself galvanized by the hedonistic aura of the 1980s, and it provided the inspiration for ULTRA, his latest fragrant release. I can appreciate his enthusiasm: the 80s were perhaps the Last Great Hurrah of unbridled sensuality and licentious behavior before it became apparent that the sybaritic pleasures in which we indulged might have lasting repercussions. A goodly measure of naïveté accompanied the clubbing cacophony, no-holds-barred vivacity and youthful vigor during this era: this buoyant spirit was reflected in fashion, music, and its attendant cultural milieu. In Hiram Green ULTRA, this ebullient timbre is masterfully encapsulated in an überfloral sumptuous setting adorned with glints of greenery and resinous tones. Ultra is larger than life – showy, nectarous and divine.
Image courtesy of the brand
“To me, the 1980’s conjure up images of bold fashion with big shoulder pads, mullets, catchy synth music and neon hued interiors. The decade had intense energy, confidence and a relentless optimism that inspired me to create ULTRA. At the heart of ULTRA the narcissus shines. Its rich and radiant character brings to life the vibrant spirit of the 1980’s.” ~ perfumer Hiram Green
Image courtesy of the brand
Hiram Green ULTRA bursts out of the bottle like a racehorse at the gate; it’s infectious and spirited from the get-go. This parfum is floral, first and foremost – before one becomes aware of its indolic appeal. Because Hiram spares no expense and sources the finest olfactory materials he can, we commence with a brilliant neroli wed to jasmine and fruity ylang-ylang. It’s dizzying and full-bodied, suffused with a sense of fun. This trio serves to showcase a radiant true narcissus absolute from the Lozère region of France, a costly essence which is rarely employed, and more frequently evoked by utilizing jonquil and other florals to achieve a (hopefully) similar effect. There is no substitution or reconstruction in ULTRA; the nuances of leather, hay, and tobacco which grace this complex substance are joyfully present, along with a delicate verdancy in the top notes. When the perfumer refers to floral nectar, I posit that an accord has been composed to flesh out the honeyed aspects of an array of blossoms; whatever that entails, the result is delicious. As you might anticipate, each of these flowers possesses an animalic facet – and the longer you experience it, you are gently reminded of this characteristic which they share. The deeply resinous base is very lightly smoky (due to the presence of labdanum) and sweet.
ULTRA was a big hit in Shanghai with men (via email to Michelyn)
Ultra dances. With an increase in movement your body generates more heat, and ULTRA unfolds anew. Blithe and carefree as the disco days, it is a fragrance destined to delight with its upbeat temperament. I am not one to blind buy, for the most part – but in this case I made an exception, because I have yet to smell a Hiram Green perfume which I didn’t love.
Notes: neroli, ylang ylang, narcissus, jasmine, floral nectar, leather, hay, tobacco, labdanum, resins
My review is based upon a flacon of ULTRA which I personally purchased from Indigo Perfumery. My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor
Courtesy of Indigo Perfumery
Thanks to the generosity of Hiram Green we have a 50 ml. flacon of ULTRA for one registered reader in the EU OR if you are in the USA, Ann from Indigo Perfumery is offering a 50 m bottle in the USA. .To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what appeals to you about Hiram Green ULTRA based upon Ida’s review, whether you have a favorite Hiram Green fragrance, or 80s song and where you live. Draw close November 1, 2025
Available at www.hiramgreen.com, Indigo Perfumery and Fine stockists
Hiram Green has been the recipient of our ÇaFleureBon Best of Scent (Michelyn) 2020, twice in 2019 (Ida and former Editor Despina, (Michelyn 2018, 2016 and 2014).
Hyde received a 2019 Art & Olfaction Award in the Artisan Category
Hiram Green Philtre was Ermano’s Best Natural Perfume of 2024 and a top 10 perfume for MIchelyn in 2024
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