Velvet & Sweet Pea’s Purrfumery Narcissus Poeticus 2
“This is a true scent of spring and rejuvenation. Enjoy it while it lasts!” ~ perfumer Laurie Stern on her new Narcissus Poeticus 2
Narcissus via Unsplash
Perfume lovers often wonder why certain fragrances become discontinued. When it comes to botanical materials, there can be several reasons: a) prohibitive cost; b) a scarcity or inability to source a similar and/or reliable quality material due to terroir or harvest conditions, amongst them. One of the most challenging aspects which the perfumer may have to face is this: often times, when a natural source ceases to be, that’s it. There’s only so much; the well runs dry. Independent artisanal perfumers like Laurie Stern of Velvet & Sweet Pea’s Purrfumery understand and lament such situations – and they refuse to compromise. Recently, a customer favorite perfume, Narcissus Poeticus, was created and released in response to demand – in a second vintage version. The first iteration sold out years ago, and it has taken months of aging for Narcissus Poeticus Natural Perfume vintage 2 to be ready for sale. When I discovered that it was going to be a limited edition, I didn’t hesitate to purchase some, because I have followed Laurie’s endeavors for nearly 2 decades and have smelt all of her perfumes, enfleurages, creams, and bath salts. I am an avowed fan of narcissus to begin with, and the perfumer is nothing if not passionate about her work. Suffice it to say that my expectations were exceeded: what Laurie has composed is masterly and utterly original; more importantly, it is beautiful.
Laurie Stern of Velvet & Sweet Pea’s Purrfumery
I confess to not being wowed (in general) simply because something is labeled a “limited edition”; often the term may be misleading and/or a marketing ploy. With regard to Velvet & Sweet Pea’s Purrfumery, a fragrance is limited for all the reasons I stated above. Laurie doesn’t cut corners. For example – the rare Tamil Nadu sandalwood she employs was purchased 25 years ago, and its terroir will never be duplicated. Jonquil (and narcissus) thrives at the foot of France’s Massif Central, in the Lozère region of Languedoc country; its harvest is dependent upon the vagaries of climate. There are several great perfumers whose narcissus perfumes could not be completed until a reliable quantity of high-grade absolute could become available. I present these facts not as apology, but in the interest of clarity – because how else would we know? It can be quite expensive to acquire extraordinary essences, and Laurie chooses to purchase the finest ones she can find.
courtesy of the brand
Narcissus Poeticus 2 commences with the sparkle of sweet mandarin and tangy sweet-tart kumquat; you don’t expect them, and therein lies the delight. What follows is highly sophisticated, as Chinese osmanthus imparts its characteristic apricot-y leatheriness: it’s companionable in concert with jonquil, which is a highly fragrant species of the narcissus family. When these two elements wed, the pleasurable barnyard and somewhat horsey animalic floral face of narcissus poeticus is conjured. The additional fruity astringency of black currant imparts its own tangy floralcy tinged with sulfur and a thiol compound (which in higher concentrations mimics cat urine) – one more example of fruit waxing animalic. Often, evoking a memorable soliflore may be more complex than one might intuit. Violet tones contribute their verdant bloom, and orris butter and Laurie’s rare sandalwood complete the portrait of this intriguing, multi-faceted floral. The end result is a seamless olfactory image quite unlike many narcissus-based perfumes to which we have become accustomed.
One of the singular facets of Laurie Stern’s work is that she composes from her own concepts – not a given brief. This allows her total freedom to follow her muse; she needn’t bend it to another’s shape or will. I firmly believe that when an artist is able to achieve this, the outcome is soul-filled and meaningful. Narcissus Poeticus 2 is proof positive, a discrete realm of calm in the maelstrom of today’s world.
Notes: jonquille, French violets, black currant bud, Portuguese kumquat, mandarin, osmanthus, orris butter, Tamil Nadu sandalwood
(* This second limited edition of Narcissus Poeticus is available as a parfum only in exquisite crystal Verreries Brosse French flacons and tucked into a dupioni silk pouch with vintage velvet flowers.)
I gratefully purchased my own flacon of Narcissus Poeticus 2. My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor
Velvet & Sweet Pea’s Purrfumery Narcissus Poeticus 2
Thanks to the largesse of natural perfumer Laurie Stern, we have a 5ml ml flacon of Velvet & Sweet Pea’s Purrfumery Narcissus Poeticus 2 for a registered reader in the USA. You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what sparks your interest based on Ida’s review and that you live in the USA. Draw closes 10/13/2025
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Laurie Stern was Michelyn’s Best Natural Perfumer of 2020
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