When I was a teenager in the mid-2000s, my friends and I never used sunscreen. (Gasp, I know, but it was a different time—and my skin damage proves it.) Instead, we coated our bodies in layers of lotions and potions in pursuit of the perfect tan—including, of course, baby oil. Like generations of tanners before us, we were convinced the shiny oil would attract more UV rays for a deeper tan. A few years later, I did add some sun protection to my tanning routine… in the form of Banana Boat SPF 4 Dark Tanning Oil.
As increased education and advocacy for sun safety and responsible SPF usage became more prevalent, tanning oils seemed to fade into the background, relegated to a small space on the lowest big-box store shelf almost like a shameful little indulgence, replaced on the shelf by sporty sunscreen sprays and self-tanners.
So imagine my surprise when, a few years ago, I noticed brands launching oils—but not just any old tanning oils. No, these were rebranded and repackaged as sunscreen oils, boasting actual SPF protection and promising to make your skin look magazine-spread gorgeous.
For those of us who are reckoning with our youthful tanning exploits, however, the idea of wearing an oil formula in place of a cream or lotion seems like the antithesis of sun safety. (Anyone who got a blistering burn from baby oil will know what I mean.) I’ve used a few in the past and enjoyed the experience: the novelty of a baby oil-inspired SPF, the delicious smells, the shimmery, shiny glow it imparts on skin. But I was also curious about the kind of sun protection I was really getting from an oil—are these just tanning oils in a pretty disguise or can sunscreen oils genuinely compete with a gold-standard lotion?
The answer is, well, yes! With some caveats.
What to look for on a sunscreen oil label
According to Annette Czernik, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Stamford, Connecticut, sunscreen oils can protect your skin just as well as a lotion formula—with one very important note: they must contain a real, broad-spectrum SPF of at least 30. (Sorry, younger self, that SPF 4 does not cut it, and neither does anything with an SPF 15.) You want to spend some time reading the label before making a purchase; look for “broad spectrum” front and center, which means a formula will protect skin against both UVA and UVB rays, she says. Though she generally prefers lotions or creams because they’re easier to apply on the skin and show where you may have missed a spot, she says that “the best sunscreen is the one you’ll wear consistently and reapply as needed.”
Application is also key to ensuring you’re properly protected, Dr. Czernik adds. “Sunscreen oil needs to be spread into an even, generous layer over all exposed skin rather than lightly misted or rubbed on sparingly,” she advises. Let it sit for about 15 minutes before sun exposure so it can form a “protective film” and make sure you’re applying a lot of product. “The biggest mistake is assuming a thin, shiny layer is enough when it usually isn’t,” Dr. Czernik says. If you’re using a spray oil, rub it in with your hands to make sure your skin is evenly covered, and don’t forget about what Dr. Czernik calls the “easy-to-miss areas, like the hairline, ears, and tops of the feet.”
Sunscreen oils may also wear off faster than their lotion and spray counterparts, especially if you’re swimming, sweating, or rubbing your skin dry with a towel, Dr. Czernik cautions, so they may need to be reapplied more often than the typically recommended two hours.